Egypt

Since a long time, the necessity of a web page which gives accurate and up to date information’s about traveling and birding in Egypt became stringent. Most of the websites dedicated to the birds or birding in Egypt, are full of trip reports, photos, various trip offers, but none of them has the most desired element: the traveling information’s for the backpacker ornithologist. One of the aims of Birding in Egypt is to fill up this gap.

Reporting us your experience and your bird observations from Egypt during your trip, will help us to be up to date in informing the travelers about the changes in the traveling conditions. Also it will be a precious contribution for us to update and maintain the OSME and Birdlife checklists of Egypt. The official OSME checklist is available on this web page.

Please report any abuse of the environment to the Ministry of state for environmental affairs: eeaa@eeaa.gov.eg and to Dr. Mustafa M. Fouda, the director of the nature conservation sector, or to the local rangers of NCS (see the contacts at the “birding hot spots” chapter).

Before traveling to Egypt

Check your passport expiry date, as it is a requirement to be valid for more than 6 months hence your departure to Egypt.

A tourist visa for Egypt can be obtained from any diplomatic mission worldwide, but also can be obtained upon arrival at any Egyptian airport. From my experience, the last choice is far better. First of all is much cheaper (US $15) and spares the busy birder from traveling to Egypt's embassy or consulate in his country, waiting, and paying at least double the cost of the visa in Egypt. Strange but true.

Most foreign currencies are accepted as exchange in Egypt, and changing offices are virtually everywhere. GBP, US dollars and Euro is accepted everywhere, but is advisable to change some of it in Egyptian Pounds, to pay with it. Check your currency rate here.

Money

The Egyptian Pound or gineh (Arabic) is the currency of Egypt. It is divided into 100 piaster or giersh (Arabic). The ISO 4217 code is EGP. Locally, the abbreviation LE or L.E., which stands for livre égyptienne (French for Egyptian pound), is frequently used. EL and LE are also sometimes used. All Egyptian banknotes are bilingual, with Arabic texts and Eastern Arabic numerals on the obverse and English and Hindu Arabic numerals on the reverse.

VISA and MasterCard are widely accepted in banks. You may find ATM`s at almost each bank entrance. Always keep some cash with you as in most places (fuel stations, shops, etc) cards are not accepted.

Accommodation

It is advisable to find accommodation trough a travel agent, as it will be much cheaper than if you just walk to a hotel. Some of the hotels may be overbooked at any time of the year. Do not forget that the hotel ranking in Egypt is much different than in Europe and USA. For example a 3* hotel in Egypt is in best case accepted as a motel category in Europe.

For foreigners it is said to be forbidden to camp in the wild in Egypt for security reasons. I have never found out what is the threat…

Anyway, if you are camping in the desert, take care to stop just before dark, and drive into the desert from the main road, with the lights switched off. Otherwise, one of the coast guards, security police, or a curious trespasser will ask you what you are doing there. Even if he does not bother you, in 10 minutes the whole nearby village knows about you and be sure, one policeman will question you and send you to the first hotel.

Birding in Egypt can help you to find accommodation all around Egypt, if you contact us at least 30 days before your arrival in Egypt.

Clothing

Temperatures are mild or hot, except for the winter months (Dec, Jan and Feb) when the temperatures can drop to 10 degree Celsius. Once I have photographed frosty sand dunes in the surroundings of Mons Claudianus, perhaps only 100 meters above sea level. In the high mountains of Sinai, the nights can be cold even in the summer. A pullover it is enough for these nights, it is useless to fill our bags with (European) winter stuff. In cooler months, use the "layering" technique, topped with a windstopper.

Hardier hiking boots are needed only in the mountainous areas of the Eastern Desert and South Sinai, but "sensible walking shoes" are the rule everywhere, especially on non-existent or treacherously broken pavements.

Food

Food is cheap and available in all local restaurants. The local hygiene standards are rather low, but keep in mind that the well cooked food is sterile. Even the 5* restaurants in Europe have the same hygiene gaps, behind the closed doors. You should avoid the restaurants in crowded tourist areas as they can be very expensive.

Photo: A typical local restaurant in Quseir.©István Moldován

Canned food and a large variety of fresh vegetables and fruits are available in the local markets. As a reference, 1 kg of banana is no more than 1$, in the main season, half of this price.

Health

Yellow fever vaccine is required for all travelers greater than one year of age arriving from a yellow-fever-infected country (from any of the following countries):

Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Panama, Peru, Suriname, Venezuela, Trinidad and Tobago and most of the African countries.

Vaccination against Hepatitis A and B type is recommended for visitors to Egypt.

Due to the different bacterial flora, traveler’s diarrhea catches up with perhaps half of Egypt's visitors, particularly during the hot months, May through September. In winter this rate is considerably less. The cornerstone of prevention is food and water precautions. Most

It can be easily cured with Antinal or Drotazide, which is available without prescription in any pharmacy, for less than $1. It should be taken 2 capsules at once, than 1 capsule each 6 hours, till the symptoms are over. In case of a serious illness, it is best to visit a doctor. An infusion (with rehydrating salts, antibiotics and spasmolitics) puts back to his feet in less than 3 hours. Any kind of insurance is accepted by most doctors, but sometimes QBE Atlas is refused.

One of the best clinics is in Hurghada, where various insurance policies are accepted and you do not have to pay cash.

http://www.europaclinichurghada.com/

This clinic provides free transportation to the clinic for the one who need it, even from longer distances.

In case of pertaining emergency, there are always private clinics with trained physicians. A health insurance is required, but always asks if you can pay with it. QBA Atlas insurances are not always accepted.

Transport

The railway network is basically only in the Nile Valley and Delta. It is a cheap and comfortable way of traveling between Cairo and Aswan, nowadays even sleeping cars are available for less than 50 US dollars.

There are two main stations in Cairo (Ramsess and Giza). Any taxi driver will take you there, if you speak a few words in Arabic, but some of them may understand basic English.

For example: “To Ramsess railway station” is Mahat_t el atr, Ramsis.

Traveling by bus is even more simple, but not always comfortable. The Upper Egypt bus company and its affiliates (East Delta Company and West Delta Company) are operating in the Nile Valley and Red Sea Coast. Scheduled departures all around Egypt (except Sinai). The buses are old, some lack air conditioning, are sometimes slow and stinky, but cheap and take you anywhere, from Alexandria to Bir Shalatien or to Aswan. Other bus companies include the Super Jet, East Delta, and South Sinai bus companies.

Tip: if you are traveling by bus, DO NOT forget to take ear plugs. Most of the buses are equipped with video players, which continuously play very noisy movies. Late at night when most of travelers are sleeping, the drivers may play Quaranic verses quite loudly.

El Gouna Bus station (Cairo, Tahrir square) is operating the best bus service in Egypt. The buses are scheduled almost every hour to Hurghada (Red Sea Coast) and Sharm El Sheik (Sinai Peninsula).

Taxi may be found everywhere in urban areas. Do not forget that the price of the fuel is very low (around 2 EGP for one liter), so pay accordingly. The taxis are more expensive in the airports than inside the cities. For example, a ride from Cairo International airport to the Gulf of Suez (Ain Sokhna) is 150 to 200 Egyptian pounds (c. 170 km). In the city, from the Giza Pyramids to the downtown (Tahrir Square) the price is 25 Egyptian pounds. It is up to your bargaining talent how much can you reduce from the initial price.

For the traveling birder the car rental is the best way to get around. An international driving license is required to drive in Egypt. Do not forget, that virtually there are no traffic rules in Egypt, and that the signals of the drivers can be confusing as they are exactly the opposite like in Europe.

Renting a car is not the cheapest thing but it gives you the comfort of freedom. Check the breaks, oil engine and water, before you rent a car. Check the spare tires and the basic tools. Always have spare water with you just in case. Ask for car insurance as 90% of the cars do not have insurance!

One of the cheapest car rentals is in Hurghada, in front of Sea Gull Hotel. There is an red internet sign on the opposite side of the road (in Russian as well), and behind the internet coffee is a small rental office, run by Jussef and Ramis. The office cell number is: +2-01-29-345-930

Tip: The best source of information on the traffic is the motorist guide of Mary Dungan Megalli: On the Road in Egypt (AUC Press, 1990).

Contact us if you need help for a car rental, and if is asked at least 30 days prior to your arrival at Cairo International Airport, we can arrange to get the rented car in the airport.

Egyptians are quite helpful and always curious; therefore the hitchhiking is possible, despite the fact that tourism police do not advice foreigners to use this kind of traveling.

Check points and road humps

Is hard to believe that is any other country in the world with so many check points and "speed bumps". Any serious checkpoint has at least 6 in any direction….

In cities, especially in Safaga, Sharm El Sheik, Hurghada or Dahab (but in many other cities as well), there are hill sized road humps. Take care especially at night, as the warning signs (if there are any) are hard to see, the bumps are NOT painted, and you have many chances to destroy your car.

If you are traveling from Cairo to the Red Sea coast, the first checkpoint is at Ain Sokhna. They may ask to see your license, but they do not bother you usually. The next is at Zafarana. Here one may turn right to St Anthony`s monastery. Do not forget to refuel here! There is one petrol station with unleaded fuel, 92 octanes.

Another major checkpoint is at Ras Gharib. Take care; radar is very often posted on the road (and very well concealed!), before and after this checkpoint! The speed limit is 110 km/hour, and the fee is 150 pounds at the site, or they will lift your license. Always have some Egyptian pounds for these cases. Since they get some percentage of this fee, the policeman does not risk taking money “under table”. Don`t even think about not paying the exact fee.

El Gouna, Hurghada, Safaga, Quseir and Marsa Alam check points are usually quiet with no harassment.

Fuel Stations

Except the Marsa Alam - Bir Shalatin road, petrol stations are available everywhere at responsible distances. The highest octane fuel is 95, but it can be found only in Cairo, Alexandria, Hurghada and Sharm el Sheik. It is by far the most expensive, at 2.85 EGP.

In most fuel stations, 92 octanes is available. The price is 1.85 Egyptian pounds. Use this one, instead of 90, which is not appreciated by most engines…. In the worst case 90 can be used, cost 1.75 EGP.

I have used even 80 octanes when really in need, but the car hardly moved and was coughing badly.

A tip of 1 EGP is usually given to the fuel station employee who pumps your gas. Be prepared that most gas stations have no toilet and running water, instead you can buy some bottled water and wash your hands somewhere else.

Travel restrictions

Some of the regions of Egypt are restricted for foreigner travelers. One of the most notorious areas is the Halaib Triangle, in extreme SE Egypt, which is administered by Sudan since 1895. The Elba Mountain with his afro- tropical bird species (Shining Sunbird, Rosy-patched Shrike, Fulvous Babbler, Sudanese Golden Sparrow, Bateleuer, etc) were always an attraction for birders. Unfortunately at the moment it is almost impossible for foreigners to attend a trip, south of Bir Shalatien.

In the Eastern Desert the traffic is open for foreigners. They can travel alone in a rented car on most open roads. From Wadi Lahami is forbidden to travel further south to Bir Shalatin without a local licensed Egyptian guide. Therefore, on the way down south, a guide should be hired from Marsa Alam or Hurghada, at any travel agency.

Several roads which connect the Red Sea coast with the Nile valley are closed for foreigners (Qift-Quseir road), but other roads like Safaga-Qena-Luxor and Edfu-Marsa Alam are open to foreigners since 2009. On Safaga-Qena road for foreigners is permitted to travel (drive) only during daylight, so avoid to travel at night as the police may turn you back. Between Marsa Alam and Edfu there are convoys organized at 7 AM and 7 PM. It is advisable to be there at this time, as the police may ask you to join the convoy.

Photo: along the Marsa Alam-Edfu road ©István Moldován

On the new Berenice- Aswan road there are no restrictions for traveling, if someone passed the checkpoint S of Wadi Lahami.

It is necessary to mention that since spring 2009, it is forbidden for foreigners to spend the night in Bir Shalatin. Only day trips can be organized there.

On the Red Sea Coast it is harder and harder to go birding on an apparently uninhabited beach. Coast guards will chase you as it is forbidden (?) for non-natives to use a natural beach. It is allowed only at a hotel owned beach section.

Tip: if you want a break somewhere for birding on the Red Sea coast, choose a place where you can`t be seen by any coast guard tower or military base.

In the Nile Valley, on the Cairo-Aswan agricultural road, there are no restrictions, but the traffic is very slow due to the numerous check points and heavy traffic. In order to travel from Cairo to Aswan, I recommend driving along the Cairo-Ain Sokhna-Hurghada-Luxor-Aswan route.

I advice to use the Cairo-Sokhna highway, as it is shorter and faster than to take the Cairo-Suez-Ain Sokhna road. The highway toll is 5 EGP, which is to be paid at the entrance. Keep the receipt as usually at the end of the highway the guards used to ask for it.

The road on the west side of the Nile (Aswan-Luxor) is more interesting, from a birders point of view, as a lot of wetlands and excellent and relative undisturbed habitats are to be found. I did not face any obstruction at the checkpoint when I cross the bridge heading from Aswan to the west side.

In order to travel to Abu Simbel, it is necessary to join a convoy at the starting point. Twice a day (4 AM and 11 AM) there are convoys organized from Aswan (depart from the red granite quarries) to Abu Simbel and return each day from Abu Simbel (from the parking lot of the Temple of Ramsess II) at 9 AM, 10 AM and 1 PM.

On the North Coast and in the Nile Delta, there are no traveling restrictions for foreigners. However it is not allowed to cross from Egypt to Libya at Salum for foreigners.

If you wish to travel to Sinai Peninsula by car, it is advisable to travel in the first 30 days of their stay in Egypt, as a valid visa is needed in Sinai. Crossing to Sinai is possible under the Suez Canal (Ahmed Hammdi Tunnel). A fee of 3 EGP is required to cross the tunnel.

On the North Coast of Sinai there are no restrictions, but sometimes at the checkpoint in El Arish, the officers may refuse to let you travel further east toward the Palestinian border, to Yammit or Rafah.

Tip: An excellent guideline and reference for the travelers on the whole Mediterranean Coast, is the book of Jenny Jobbins and Mary Megalli: Alexandria and the Egyptian Mediterranean: A Traveler's Guide (The American University in Cairo Press, 2006)

Traveling in Sinai requires keeping your passport at hand, as there are many checkpoints and almost everywhere is a rule that the military or the police will check your visa and ask about your destination.

In the Western Desert, the Road to Siwa is open for traffic. A permission is required to travel from Siwa to the other Western Desert Oases and you are forced to join another cars.

Traveling to Gilf Kbir or Gebel Uweinat, is possible only trough a specialized travel agent or joining an expedition.

Tip: Smile, and speak with the police officers in Hungarian, Nahuatl or Gumbaynggirr languages…. . If they found out that you speak a bit of English or Arabic they will try to communicate with you as long as they can. It is nice to have a chat with them, but at the 20th checkpoint, you will not find it amusing anymore….. . It must be extremely boring to work at a checkpoint. Do the same if you have problems with the coast guard. If they cannot communicate, they better release you and do not take you to an interview with to bored officer.

Where to watch birds : IBA`s

Important Bird Areas, or IBAs, are sites that provide essential habitat for one or more species of bird. IBAs include sites for breeding, wintering, and/or migrating birds.

The IBA criteria are divided into four categories based on vulnerability and/or responsibility:

A1 - Species of Global Conservation Concern
A2 - Assemblage of Restricted-range species
A3 - Assemblage of Biome-restricted species
A4i - ≥1% biogeographic population of a waterbird simultaneously; ≥5% over a season
A4ii - ≥1% global population of a seabird or terrestrial species simultaneously; ≥5% over a season A4iii - ≥ 20,000 waterbirds/ ≥10,000 seabirds
A4iv - aerial bottleneck where ≥ 5% population of a migratory waterbird, or ≥ 5% global population of a migratory seabird or terrestrial species passes during a season

Thus an IBA should be a prime birdwatching destination.

At the moment, 34 IBA`s are recognized in Egypt, but several more should be designated as meanwhile, thanks to the new research, several has been discovered. Only a few of the actual IBA`s are protected by law. Unfortunately the law is not enforced even in the protected areas, as the EEAA and especially some enthusiastic rangers of the National Parks, do not have the power and the resources to enforce it.

Actual IBA`s in Egypt:

1. Wadi Gerafi
29° 55' North 34° 40' East
100000ha IBA criteria: A3

2. Ras Mohamed National Park
27° 44' North 34° 15' East
48000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4iv

3. St.Katherine Protectorate
28° 20' North 33° 55' East
435000ha IBA criteria: A3

4. El Qa Plain
28° 10' North 33° 40' East
200000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4iv

5. Quseima
30° 39' North 34° 22' East
2000ha IBA criteria: A3

6. Gebel Maghara
30° 45' North 33° 33' East
100000ha IBA criteria: A1, A3

7. Nabq Protected Area
28° 16' North 34° 26' East
6000ha IBA criteria: A3

8. Zaranik Protected Area
31° 7' North 33° 25' East
25000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i

9. Tiran Island
27° 56' North 34° 33' East
3100ha, IBA criteria: A1, A4i

10. Suez
29° 58' North 32° 33' East
5000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4iv

11. Ain el Sokhna
29° 35' North 32° 20' East
15000ha IBA criteria: A1, A3, A4iv

12. Lake Burullus
31° 29' North 30° 50' East
46000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i, A4ii

13. Lake Idku
31° 14' North 30° 11' East
7000ha IBA criteria: A4ii

14. Lake Maryut
31° 7' North 29° 54' East
6000ha IBA criteria: A4i

15. Lake Quarun Protected Area
29° 28' North 30° 38' East
25000ha IBA criteria: A4i, A4iii

16. Bitter Lakes
30° 20' North 32° 15' East
6000ha IBA criteria A4i

17. El Malaha
31° 13' North 32° 19' East
3500ha IBA criteria: A4i, A4iii

18 Lake Maryut
31° 7' North 29° 54' East
6000ha IBA criteria: A4i

19. Lake Manzala
31° 17' North 32° 4' East
77000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i, A4iii

20. Wadi El Ryan Protected Area
29° 13' North 30° 22' East
71000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i

21. Wadi El Natron
30° 28' North 30° 16' East
2000ha IBA criteria: A4i

22. Upper Nile
25° 9' North 32° 43' East
15000ha IBA criteria A1, A4i, A4iii

23. Aswan Reservoir
24° 0' North 32° 54' East
1500ha IBA criteria: A1

24. Lake Nasser
23° 6' North 32° 44' East
540000ha IBA criteria A1, A4i, A4iii

25. Hurghada Archipelago
27° 28' North 33° 49' East
150000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i, A4ii

26. Wadi Gamal Island
24° 40' North 35° 10' East
200ha IBA criteria A1,A4i, A4ii

27. Qulan Islands
24° 22' North 35° 23' East
300ha IBA criteria: A1

28. Zabargad Island
23° 37' North 36° 12' East
450ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i,A4ii

29. Siyal Islands
22° 47' North 36° 11' East
200ha IBA criteria: A1, A4i

30. Rawabel Islands
22° 25' North 36° 32' East
100ha IBA criteria: A1

31. Gebel Elba
22° 15' North 36° 19' East
500000ha IBA criteria: A3

32. Abraq Area
23° 35' North 34° 48' East
100000ha IBA criteria: A3

33. El Qasr Desert
31° 5' North 26° 35' East
700000ha IBA criteria A3

34. Gebel El Zeit
27° 51' North 33° 30' East
100000ha IBA criteria: A1, A4iv

For more details about IBA`s in Egypt, please visit the web page of Birdlife International.

Birding Hot Spots

Abassa Fish Pounds

Take the way down to Bilbeis, then to Abu Hammad. On the third bridge turn right. At the end of the road you will find the ponds. A reliable place to see White-breasted Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis), Senegal-thick knee (Burhinus senegalensis), Senegal Coucal (Centropus senegalensis), Painted Snipe (Rostratula benghalensis), Blue-checked Bee-eater(Merops persicus), Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreus), Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis).

There are no possibilities for accommodation here. Spend the night in Cairo.

Wadi Natrun

This is a valley located in Beheira Governorate , west of the Nile Delta and the Cairo-Alexandria Desert Highway, and about 80 km S of the Mediterranean. This is the closest place to Cairo where one of the most sought after Egyptian specialty can be seen: Kittlitz's Plover (Charadrius pecuarius). The habitat is a potential place to find one of the critically endangered species: Slender-billed Curlew (Numenius tenuirostris). In 2010, the Slender-billed Curlew Working Group has begun the search of this very rare species, with two volunteer teams right here. An endemic subspecies of the Graceful Warbler is widespread here: Prinia gracilis natronensis, and here is easy to find the Egyptian Wagtail, which can turn out to be considered a full species in the future: Motacilla flava pygmea.

Photo: Wadi Natron ©István Moldován

A good place to overnight is the Hamra Ecolodge (Tel: +2 (02) 305-3081 or +2 (010) 388-2001).The price is 150 EGP/person/night.

Photo: Hamra Ecolodge ©István Moldován

Ain Sokhna

Located at the Gulf of Suez, this is probably the best place in the Western Palearctic to watch the biannual raptor migration, and especially spring migration northward. Up to 6000 birds/day or even more can be seen when weather conditions are favorable, from late February through the end of April.

Photo: Ain Sokhna Marshes ©István Moldován

It is a migration bottleneck on the Great Rift Flyway, with IBA criteria of: A1, A3, and A4iv.

A few globally threatened species can be seen here: Imperial Eagle (Aquila heliaca), Greater Spotted Eagle (Aquilla clanga), and Lesser Kestrel (Falco naumanii). However large numbers of Steppe Buzzard and Steppe Eagles pass across the high escarpment of the mountains, and on good days, up to 60 Egyptian Vultures (Neophron percnopterus) may pass here.

An annual Tom Coles Memorial Raptor Survey & Training event, for Egyptian wildlife conservation personnel and others, is held here each year around mid-April.

The local contact is Mrs.Mary Megalli

Hurghada

This coastal tourist city and its islands is the place to see the White-eyed and the Sooty Gull, and a few much sought terns: White-checked, Bridled, Swift, and Lesser-crested. A one day boat trip to the coral reefs will show you all or most of these species and with some luck even the Brown Booby and Sooty Falcons.

The sewage ponds west of town are a good place to see Namaqua Dove(Oena capensis), Cream-colored Courser (Cursorius cursor), Sandgrouse spp., Egyptian Nightjar (Caprimulgus aegyptius) and Pharaoh`s Eagle Owl (Bubo ascalaphus).

I ran a ringing camp here several years, in collaboration with SEEN (Gdansk University, Poland), during the spring and autumn migration.

Overnight in the city. A hotel where the price/quality is in balance, is the El Arusa Hotel (2*). The general manager is Mr. Murad, one of the straightest and most honest men that I ever know. He can be contacted on his cell phone: 002-0102860063. For an anticipated reservation you may contact us.

Wadi Gamal National Park

The biodiversity of WGNP is unique. Located 50km south of Marsa el Alam, it was established as a National Park in January 2003, covering 6,770km² (4,770km² land, 2,000km² sea).WGNP is unique among Egypt’s protected areas in maintaining a high species richness of birds of prey, including one globally threatened species (Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus) and one rare and declining species (Lammergeyer Gypaetus barbatus).

During winter, several interesting passerines can be seen on the coastal area: White-tailed plover (Vanelus leucurus), Menetrie’s Warbler (Sylvia mystacea), Cyprus Warbler (Sylvia melanothorax), Kurdish Wheatear (Oenanthe xanthoprymna), Asian Desert Warbler (Sylvia nana nana), Black Scrub Robin (Cercotrichas podobe), Caspian Stonechat (Saxicola {torquatus} maurus).

An excellent accommodation possibility is Shams Alam Hotel (4*). The garden of the hotel is a real migrant trap. The rooms are clean, fully equipped and the meals are excellent. I wholeheartedly recommend the hotel.

For more information’s regarding the birding in WGNP, contact one of the local National Park rangers, Sayed El Khodary.

Wadi Lahami

This large mangrove swamp may hosts the rare and much desired Goliath Heron. A not so friendly ecolodge and diving center owner has a tent camp lodge at the end of the road which leads to the mangrove swamps. For some reason, he considers himself the owner of the mangrove and the Goliath Herons. In order to maintain peace with the camp owner it is advisable to have an expensive lunch at his place or to pay here for one night accommodation, 40 Euro/person in a tent (with all meals and drinks included).

Just to make him feel bad, I am always camping in the desert, in a nearby wadi. Free, comfortable, and there are no mosquitoes. Good place to see a Hoopoe Lark and migrants as well.

Hamata Mangrove

Hamata Mangrove is the most extensive mangrove stands in Egypt. A new bird watching trail is in use at the National Park. The local rangers can show you a few places, where Crab Plovers and Goliath Heron can be seen.

For more information it is wise to contact one of the local National Park rangers, Sayed El Khodary

Bir Shalatin

A Sudanese village, which is unfortunately one of the last good places to be. The local bazaar is still authentic, not the “Made in China” type.

There are two hotels: El Haramin (The robbers) and Dr. Bargud (Dr. Flea). Hard to choose between them? Well, I wholeheartedly recommend Dr. Bargud Hotel. There are smaller rooms, not only common bedrooms, and there are no fleas. Well, cockroaches are present, but you may find them even in most 5* hotels in tourist resorts.

The camel market is easy to find, asking the locals. The Lapped-faced Vultures (Torgos tracheliotos) are circling around, as well as the Egyptian Vultures (Neophron precnopterus). Chances to see the Rüpell`s Vulture (Gyps rüepelli) and Lammergeyer (Gypaetus barbatus) as well.

For more info, contact the head ranger of the Elba Natural Protectorate, Ibrahim Nasser

St. Katherine protectorate

The best place to spend the night is the Desert Fox Camp in St. Katherine city. Cheapest place in the world, dinner is great, and the personal are very friendly and have a charming sense of humor. If is fully booked, try the Bedouin Camp. Rooms are cleaner; price is around 10 Euro/night. The rooms are equipped with mosquito nets. However, is advisable to buy a Pyrosol spray ahead, and spray all around the room. Is very effective and cost less than a dollar. Well, I suppose it is highly effective as an ozone and lounge destroyer as well.....

Tristam`s Grackle (Onycognamus tristamii), Palestinian Sunbird (Nectarinia osea), White-crowned Weather (Oenanthe leucopyga) are just a few birds which are always around the camp. Hyraxes (Procarvia capensis) inhabit the cliffs behind the camp.

Ala El Din Ismail is one of the best trained researchers of the Rangers corps that I have met. Well worthwhile to contact them before you visit the National Park.

Luxor

There are a lot of cheap accommodation possibilities in Luxor. Most popular and cheep accommodation is in the downtown, behind the Luxor temple, beside the Omm Caltzun Coffee Shop, but there are many others (Hathor, Nefertari hotels) along the main street(Nile Corniche). But if one wants to be at the right birding spot in the early morning, he should go to Mövenpick Hotel gardens, on Crocodile Island. The hotel has been sold to another company and the island is called “King`s Island”, but every local will know it as Crocodile Island.

Best place to find the Red Avadavat (Amandava amandava), Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio porphyrio), Painted Snipe (Rostrathula bengalensis) and Nile Valley Sunbird (Anthreptes metalicus). Even an African Openbill (Anastomus lammeligerus) was seen here in May 2009.

An expensive but well known local birding guide is Abdul Youssef. Contact him on his cell number: +2-012-239-54-67, or ask at the reception of Mövenpick hotel.

Aswan

Accommodation is easy to find, using your Lonely Planet Guide. There are many cheap hotels around, even on the main street. The most famous (if still functional) is Bob Marley Hotel. The brand name tells a lot about this great place. Peace man.... and another good value is the Kelaney. In Saluga and Ghazal Island Protectorate, you will find all of the Herons species of Egypt, including the Mangrove Heron (Butorides striata).

Yellow-billed Kites (Milvus aegypticus) circle around the Nile all day long, and the Three-banded Plover (Charadrius tricolaris) may be find here if the Nile level is low and the mudflats are above the surface. Aswan is the single place in the entire Western Palearctic where the Three-Banded Plover appear, and seems to bread. Wintering Grey Hypocolius (Hypocolius ampelinus) has been observed here as well.

Abu Simbel

Traveling in convoy is required to Abu Simbel, and is wise to join one, just in case. Always take a spare box of water with you as there is no water available enroute. The departure of the first convoy is at 4am, the second is at 11 am.

There are two hotels: Nefertari, which is called 4* and the price is 120$/person/night, and Ramses II.

I choose Ramses II Hotel. Ear plugs are a must here, as a mosque is in the middle of the hotel. It is around $15/person/night. Some extra food is advisable to be taken to the breakfast (even if is not nice) as the served meals are not sufficient for anything larger than a dormouse.

Beside the Airport Bay, you may find African Wagtails (Motacilla aguimp) and Yellow-billed Storks (Mycteria ibis). Stumbling across the bushes, you will probably flush an Egyptian Nightjar (Caprimulgus aegyptcus) and even several Kittlitz`s Plover (Charadrius pecuarius).

Check Lake Nasser for Pink-backed Pelicans (Pelecanus rufescens) and African Skimmers (Rynchops flavirostris).

No matter how much you want to have a swim in the lake Nasser, resist the temptation. It is a great place to see huge Nile Crocodiles (Crocodylus niloticus) instead…..

Have a nice birding and do not forget to submit us or to OSME a report of your birding trip.

Photo: If you did not find the targeted species, never mind. In Egypt you’ll always have fun!