Travelling to Egypt

For a number of years, the need for a web page that provides accurate, up to date information not only about birding, but also about travelling in Egypt has been evident. Most websites dedicated to birds or birding in Egypt contain trip reports, photos and a variety of tour offers, but none have a crucial element: up to date travelling information for the solo birding traveller or backpacker. At Birding in Egypt we aim to fill this gap.

By reporting to us your experiences and details of your bird observations in Egypt, you can help us keep up to date in informing other travellers about any changes that might affect them. You would be helping us to update the Egypt checklists, from both the Ornithological Society of the Middle East, the Caucasus and Central Asia (OSME for short) and BirdLife. The OSME-based provisional checklist, which will include all decisions by the Egyptian Ornithological Rarities Committee, is available on this web page.

Please report any abuse of the environment to the Ministry of State for Environmental Affairs: eeaa@eeaa.gov.eg and to Dr. Wafaa Amer, the director of the Nature Conservation Sector (NCS), or to the local NCS rangers. Contact details are given in the Birding Hotspots chapter. Any abuse observed in the marine environment, should be reported online to Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association (HEPCA).

Before travelling to Egypt

Check your passport expiry date! Your passport has to be valid for at least 6 months after your departure from Egypt.

You can obtain a tourist visa for Egypt from any Egyptian diplomatic mission worldwide, but you can normally also obtain it on arrival at any Egyptian airport, but do check this before you travel! From my experience, the latter choice is far better, being much cheaper ($15 US) and sparing the busy birder from travelling to Egypt's embassy or consulate beforehand, waiting there for an indeterminate time and paying at least double the price demanded in Egypt.

Most foreign currencies are accepted for exchange in Egypt, and Bureaus de Change are virtually everywhere. GBP (£), US dollars ($) and Euro (€) are accepted everywhere, but it is advisable to change some money into Egyptian Pounds (EGP [ISO code 4217]) for smaller purchases and bills. Check your currency rate here.

All travellers should visit either their personal physician or a travel health clinic 4-8 weeks before departure (see Health chapter).

Money

The Egyptian Pound (gineh in Arabic) is the local currency, and comprise 100 piasters (giersh in Arabic). Locally, you will see or hear the abbreviation LE used; it stands for the French term, livre égyptienne (French for Egyptian pound). The terms E£ and £E also sometimes appear. All Egyptian banknotes are in two languages, with Arabic texts and Eastern Arabic numerals on the obverse and English and numerals (the latter properly called ‘Arabic’ numerals technically and confusingly!) on the reverse.

VISA and MasterCard are widely accepted in banks. You may find ATMs at most bank entrances. However, always have cash at hand because in many places (such as fuel stations and shops) cards are not accepted.

Accommodation

It is advisable to find accommodation through a travel agent, because it is far cheaper than the price at a hotel reception. Some hotels may be full or overbooked at any time of year. Note that hotel ranking in Egypt does not equate to that in Europe or the USA; for example, a 3* hotel in Egypt approximates to a motel in Europe.

For security reasons, it apparently is forbidden for foreigners to camp in the wild in Egypt. I never have discovered exactly what the threat is…

However, if you are camping in the desert (at your own risk), it is highly advisable to stop just before dark so that you can drive without lights into the desert off the main road. Otherwise, an official from such as the security police or (near a coast) coastguard, or even a curious passer-by will ask you what you are doing there. You can guarantee that in 10 minutes everyone in the nearest village will know about you and that very soon a policeman will come along to question you and firmly insist that you go to the nearest hotel.

However, Birding in Egypt can help you to find accommodation all around Egypt, but you must contact us at least 30 days before your arrival in-country.

Clothing

Temperatures usually are mild to hot, except in the winter months of December, January and February, when it can drop to an average as 10°C (50°F for the non-metric minority). However, once I photographed frost-covered sand dunes that surround Mons Claudianus (Eastern Desert) perhaps only 100 metres above sea level. Indeed, in the high mountains of Sinai, the nights can be cold even in the summer. A sweater is adequate for such nights; it is a waste of time filling your baggage with heavy winter clothing! In the cooler months, simply add a few more layers and use a windcheater.

Proper hiking boots are needed only in the mountainous areas of the Eastern Desert and South Sinai, but sensible walking shoes are the rule everywhere, especially to cope with non-existent or treacherous broken pavements (sidewalks).

Food

Food is generally cheap, available from all local restaurants. Local hygiene standards may be questionable, but remember that well-cooked food is safest. Avoid restaurants in the crowded tourist areas, because they can be very expensive. Canned food and a large variety of fresh vegetables and fruit are available in the local markets. For example, 1 kg (2.2lb) of bananas typically costs about $1US, and in season, half that price.

Canned food and a large variety of fresh vegetables and fruits are available in the local markets. As a reference, 1 kg of banana is no more than 1$, in the main season, half of this price.

Health

Yellow fever vaccination is mandatory for all travellers over one year old arriving from a yellow-fever-infected country (eg from any of the following countries, but check on health websites beforehand, because the lists can change): Belize, Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Panama, Peru, Suriname, Venezuela, Trinidad and Tobago and most other African countries.

Hepatitis A and B type vaccination is recommended for visitors to Egypt.

As in many hot countries, the endemic bacteria in gut flora can easily cause traveller’s diarrhoea; perhaps50% of Egypt's visitors may be affected, particularly during the hot months (May to the end of September). In winter, the infection rate is considerably lower. As always, the cornerstone of prevention is taking sensible precautions to ensure that food is well-cooked (or washed with clean water) and water is drinkable (water purification tablets may introduce a chemical taste, but...).

Diarrhoea normally can be cured easily with Antinal or Drotazide, which are available without prescription in any pharmacy for less than $1 US. Two capsules should be taken at once, then 1 capsule every 6 hours until the symptoms disappear. However, in serious cases, seeks a doctor’s advice. An infusion (with rehydrating salts, antibiotics and spasmolytic drugs) can work within 3 hours. Most travel health insurance schemes are accepted by doctors, but some, for example, QBE Atlas, are refused.

One of the best clinics is in Hurghada, where various insurance policies are accepted and you do not have to pay cash.

http://www.europaclinichurghada.com/

This clinic provides free transportation to it for anyone who needs it, even from long distances.

In case of emergency, there are always private clinics with trained physicians. Valid health insurance is required, but remember always to ask if your policy falls into that category!

Transport

The railway network extends to little more thann the Nile Valley and Delta, but it is a cheap and comfortable way of travelling between Cairo and Aswan. Nowadays, even sleeping berths are available for less than $50 US.

There are two main stations in Cairo (Ramses and Giza). Any taxi driver will take you there, but in such circumstances a few Arabic phrases are an advantage. For example, “To Ramses railway station” is “Mahat_t el atr, Ramsis”. Some taxi-drivers may understand basic English.

Travelling by bus is even simpler, but is not always comfortable. The Upper Egypt Bus Company and its affiliates (East Delta Company and West Delta Company) operate in the Nile Valley and down the Red Sea Coast. Schedules operate all around Egypt (except Sinai). However, the buses are old, some lack air conditioning and are sometimes slow and smelly, but they are cheap and take you anywhere, from Alexandria to Bir Shalatein or to Aswan. Other bus companies include the Super Jet, East Delta, and South Sinai.

Tip: if you are travelling by bus, DO NOT forget to take ear plugs. Most of the buses are equipped with video players, which continuously play very noisy movies. Late at night when most travellers are sleeping, the drivers may play Quaranic (Koranic) verses quite loudly.

El Gouna Bus Station (Cairo, Tahrir square) operates the best bus service in Egypt. The schedules to Hurghada (Red Sea Coast) and Sharm El Sheik (Sinai Peninsula) are almost hourly.

Taxis can be found everywhere in urban areas. Remember that since the price of the fuel is very low (around 2 EGP for a litre), you should pay accordingly. Taxis are more expensive at airports than in cities. For example, a ride from Cairo International Airport to the Gulf of Suez (Ain Sokhna (c170 km)) is 150 to 200 EGP. In Cairo, from downtown Tahrir Square to the Giza Pyramids is 25 EGP. Your bargaining ability will determine by how much you can reduce the initial asking price!

For the travelling birder, renting a car is the best way to get around. An international driving permit (IDP) is required to drive in Egypt (Also, check with your vehicle insurance and breakdown cover companies beforehand). Do not forget, that whatever traffic rules may exist in legislation, there is virtually no observance of them by drivers Egypt. Beware that some signals made by drivers can be confusing to visitors, because their meaning is exactly opposite to US and European interpretation.

Renting a car is not noticeably cheap, but it does give you freedom. Before you rent any car, check the brakes, engine oil and water levels, all lights, that all controls function, that the spare tyres are inflated and have no visible damage, and that all the basic tools are included! Always carry ample water supplies (for drinking and for the radiator) just in case. Ask for vehicle insurance (perhaps 90% of the cars do not have insurance) and make sure you understand exactly what your contribution would amount to in the event of an accident!

One of the cheapest car rentals is in Hurghada, in front of the Sea Gull Hotel. To find it, look for a red Internet sign across the road from the hotel (also in Russian Cyrillic). Behind the Internet coffee shop is a small car rental office, run by Jussef and Ramis. The office cell number is: +2-01-29-345-930

Tip: The best source of information on traffic aspects remains the motoring guide of Mary Dungan Megalli: On the Road in Egypt (AUC Press, 1990).

Contact us if you need help with car rental, but if you ask at least 30 days prior to your arrival at Cairo International Airport, we can arrange for the rented car to be brought to the airport.

Egyptians are pretty helpful and always curious; therefore hitchhiking certainly is possible, despite the tourism police’s advice to foreigners not to travel this way. Hitchhiking is at your own risk.

Check points and road humps (speed bumps, ‘sleeping policemen’)

It is hard to think of any other country in the world that has so many checkpoints and road humps. Any proper checkpoint has at least 6 road humps in either direction...

In many cities, especially Safaga, Sharm El Sheik, Hurghada and Dahab), there are large (almost hill–sized!) road humps. Take care especially at night, because the warning signs (if there are any) are not prominent. The humps are almost invisible because they are NOT painted, and so you can all too easily damage your car severely.

If you are travelling from Cairo to the Red Sea coast, you will encounter the first checkpoint at Ain Sokhna. The checkpoint guards may ask to see your documents, but usually they do not bother. The next checkpoint is at Zafarana. Here one may turn right to St Anthony`s monastery. Do not forget to refuel here! There is only one petrol station with 92-octane unleaded fuel.

Another major checkpoint is at Ras Gharib, where speed radar checks are made very often from very well concealed locations on both sides of the checkpoint! The speed limit is 110 km/hour in the desert, 50 to 70 km in the localities, and the on-the-spot fine is 150 EGP. Refusal to pay will result in you losing your IDP and permission to drive in Egypt. Always carry Egyptian currency for this eventuality. Since the police get a percentage of every fine, no policeman will take the risk of asking for an “under the counter” payment. Don`t even think about haggling over the exact fine.

El Gouna, Hurghada, Safaga, Quseir and Marsa Alam checkpoints are usually quiet with no harassment.

Fuel Stations

Except on the Marsa Alam-Bir Shalatein road, fuel stations are available everywhere at reasonable distances. The highest-octane fuel is 95, but it is available only in Cairo, Alexandria, Hurghada and Sharm el Sheik. It is by far the most expensive, at about 2.85 EGP. Diesel is less expensive and available at any fuel station

In most fuel stations, 92–octane is available at about 1.85 EGP. Use this rather than 90-octane, which is not appreciated by most engines, but in the worst case it can be used, at about 1.75 EGP. The price of Diesel is variable between 90 piasters and 1 EGP.

Steve Moldován has used even 80-octane when in desperate need, but the car would hardly move and the engine coughed badly...

A tip of 1 EGP is customary for the attendant who filled your tank (pumped your gas). Be aware that most fuel stations have no toilet or running water. You should purchase bottled water and wash your hands somewhere else.

Travel restrictions

Some regions of Egypt have restrictions for foreign travellers. This is particularly the case for the Hala’ib Triangle, in extreme SE Egypt, and which has been administered by Sudan since 1895. The Elba Mountain with many afro-tropical bird species (eg Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Shining Sunbird Cinnyris habessinicus, Rosy-patched Bush-Shrike Rhodophoneus cruentus, Fulvous Babbler Turdoides fulva and Sudanese Golden Sparrow Passer luteus) has always been a tantalising attraction for birders. Unfortunately it is extremely difficult for foreigners to obtain permission to travel further south than Bir Shalatein.

In the Eastern Desert the roads are open to foreigners who may travel alone in a rented car on most roads. From Wadi Lahami, it is forbidden to travel further south to Bir Shalatein without a local licensed Egyptian guide. Therefore, on the way down south, you should hire a guide from Marsa Alam or Hurghada at any travel agency.

Several roads which connect the Red Sea coast with the Nile Valley are closed to foreigners (eg the Qift-Quseir road), but others like Safaga-Qena-Luxor and Edfu-Marsa Alam have been open to foreigners since 2009. On the Safaga-Qena road, foreigners are permitted to travel (drive) only during daylight; if you attempt to travel at night, the police may turn you back. Between Marsa Alam and Edfu, convoys are departing at 07:00 and 19:00. It is advisable to be there in plenty of time, because the police may wish you to join the convoy.

On the new Berenice-Aswan road there are no travelling restrictions once you have passed the checkpoint south of Wadi Lahami.

Note that since spring 2009 foreigners have been forbidden to overnight at in Bir Shalatein. You can visit only on day trips.

On the Red Sea coast it is becoming more and more difficult to go birding on even an apparently uninhabited beach. Coast security guards will accost you because they say it is forbidden (?) for non-Egyptians to use a natural beach. Beach access for foreigners appears to be limited only to a hotel-owned beach section.

Tip: If you do decide to go birding on the Red Sea coast (at your own risk), choose somewhere out of sight of coastal security towers or (of course) a military base.

In the Nile Valley, on the Cairo-Aswan agricultural road, there are no restrictions, but the traffic is very slow due to the numerous checkpoints and to heavy traffic. In order to travel from Cairo to Aswan, it is best to drive the Cairo-Ain Sokhna-Hurghada-Luxor-Aswan route and pay the 5 EGP toll at the entrance, but keep the receipt for any subsequent examination at a checkpoint. This is shorter and faster than the Cairo-Suez-Ain Sokhna route.

For birders, the road to the west of the Nile (Aswan-Luxor) is more interesting, because en route many wetlands and excellent and relatively undisturbed habitats can be found. I did not encounter any problems at the checkpoint when crossing the bridge from Aswan to the west.

In order to travel to Abu Simbel, you must join a convoy at the starting point. Twice a day (leaving at 4 AM and 11 AM) there are convoys organised from Aswan (departing from the red granite quarries) to Abu Simbel. Return convoys leave from Abu Simbel (from the parking lot of the Temple of Ramses II) at 9 AM, 10 AM and 1 PM.

On the north coast and in the Nile Delta, there are no travelling restrictions for foreigners. However foreigners cannot cross from Egypt to Libya at Salum.

If you wish to travel to the Sinai Peninsula it is required to have a valid visa. The regular touristic visa is valid 30 days from your arrival to Egypt. You can enter to Sinai Peninsula via the Ahmed Hammdi Tunnel under the Suez Canal for a fee of 3 EGP.

On the north coast of Sinai there are no restrictions, but sometimes at the checkpoint in El Arish, the officers may refuse to let you travel further east toward the Palestinian border, to Yammit or Rafah.

Tip: The book by Jenny Jobbins and Mary Megalli (Alexandria and the Egyptian Mediterranean: A Traveller’s Guide [The American University in Cairo Press, 2006]) is an excellent guide and reference for travellers on Egypt’s Mediterranean Coast.

Travelling in Sinai requires keeping your passport at hand, because there are many checkpoints. Almost everywhere it is the rule that the military or the police will check your visa and ask about your destination.

In the Western Desert, the road to Siwa is open for traffic. A permit is required to travel from Siwa to the other Western Desert oases. You are forced to join a convoy of other vehicles.

Travelling to Gilf Kbir or Gebel Uweinat is possible only through a specialist travel agent or joining an approved expedition.

Tip: Smile, and speak to the police officers politely in any language but English or Arabic: Hungarian, Nahuatl or Gumbaynggirr will do... If they know that you can actually speak a bit of English or Arabic, they will try hard to communicate with you for as long as they can. Such chats are pleasant, but by the 20th checkpoint, you will find it rather wearisome... It must be extremely boring to work at a checkpoint. You might take the same approach if you have problems with the coastal security. If they cannot communicate with you, they most probably will release you rather than taking you to be interviewed by a bored officer.